A mini pond for nymphs is just
When I was planning to develop my new and almost empty site, I did not forget to leave a place for the pond. The creation of a full-fledged “swimming” pond, in which water will be purified not through chemistry, but with the help of various aquatic plants, requires large expenditures - both labor and finance. Therefore, so far this business has been put aside in the “long box” (there are more priority tasks). But the thought of at least a small body of water haunted me. I wondered different options, but the solution, as often happens, came unexpectedly. About how I made a mini-pond on my site, I will tell in this article.
Choice of capacity for a mini-pond
I once walked about my repair and household needs in a construction supermarket and came across racks with technical tanks. These containers are black, made of durable plastic, because they are designed to mix all kinds of building materials: sand, cement, glue ...
They have suitable volumes, there are 30 and 60 liters. I found the maximum - 90 liters. The shape is also different. There are rectangular ones. I chose round. Despite, in general, the impressive size of such a "basin", I quite safely brought it home on a regular minibus.
A place for a small pond
It was not necessary to look for a place for his first pond for a long time. According to the rules, it should be as open to the sun as possible and not have deciduous trees nearby. I had such a “piece”, and I did not know what to do with it. He constantly overgrown with weeds, no matter how much you do not fight with him.
I have one good “secret”: if you want to overcome weeds, you need to make this place interesting, beautiful, then weeds will not have a single chance. After all, to preserve this beauty you will not have to force yourself. So, a mini-reservoir and was supposed to be the beginning of the refinement of this piece of my site.
Pit for the "basin"
First you need to dig a hole in the size of our "basin". It seems to be not difficult, but there are a couple of nuances. My soil is sandy and easily crumbles, so the main soil was chosen with a shovel, and then I had to act carefully - with a mini-shovel.
It is not worthwhile to deepen the tank deeply into the ground, because a low rim along the edge will not protect it from sagging during rains or melting snow. Therefore, we dig in, slightly raising above the soil level. It is desirable that the bottom of the tank evenly throughout its area rested on an earthen pillow.
Fortunately, the pelvis at the bottom has convex concentric circles, a kind of stiffening ribs that leave clearly visible marks at the bottom of the pit. You can immediately see where the pelvis is on the ground, and where there is a void under its bottom. Filling up and removing the earth, he achieved an even trace throughout the area.
The next and very important - the capacity must be set using the level strictly horizontally. Like nonsense, and if you do not do this, then it will be annoying. When the pit was ready, I finally inserted the tank, poured water, and filled all the voids around it with earth and spilled water several times.
Framing a mini-pond
That's all, actually! But, as you know, beauty is in the details. A basin buried in the ground ... What is beautiful? He needs a frame. Since I have a budget option, I used an old brick (and not necessarily a whole one).
A thin layer of fine crushed stone and sand was poured onto well-packed soil around the tank, and laid bricks (whole and fragments) on top. He laid it not tightly, but with a gap of about 2 cm and even more, he spilled it well with water and let it sit down.
Along the perimeter of the masonry put up the formwork. Since I have a masonry shape with bends, I used linoleum strips as a formwork. Then, a liquid sand-cement mortar filled all the seams. The excess solution was removed from the surface of the brick by a horizontally directed jet of water under pressure.
An important point: the brick was laid not strictly horizontally, but with a slight bias from the tank. I hope I understand why? Again, so that the earth and debris are not washed away into the basin, but leave it. Such brick framing makes it easy to maintain the pond, and not to stomp through the mud.
Choosing a plant for a small pond
It remains to plant a beautiful aquatic plant. And what could be prettier nymphs, or Water lilies (Nymphaea)? And I had it, just by chance, and was - waiting in the bucket of water for its time. Here, however, it is worth understanding that each nymphaeum has its own capacity.
It is usually recommended that from the surface of the water to the nympha’s outlet there should be at least 40 cm, and I only have a depth of capacity of 35 cm. The area of the water mirror is recommended to be at least 1 m², and for me with a diameter of 62 cm it turns out to 0.3 m². The volume of the container for the root system of the nymphaia is preferably 5, and preferably 10-15 liters. But in my 90 liter basin put a 10 liter container? There will be no place left.
Therefore, it is very important to select a suitable nymphaea, a dwarf variety, under such a mini-pond, to get a good result. It will be crowded, and, accordingly, they will not look very decorative.
Landing nymphs in a mini-pond
When I picked up a suitable container, low, but wide, with a capacity of 2 liters, I lined its bottom with a fine-mesh nylon mesh. Agro-fiber, geotextile, shading mesh, burlap are suitable ... In general, any material that will hold the ground in the container, preventing it from gradually being washed out through the holes, but at the same time let water through.
He filled the container with half-wet (!) Soil mixture, placed a nymphaea seedling and fell asleep around. In general, everything is the same as when planting ordinary plants. True, there is one difference. For ordinary seedlings, I always try to make a loose mixture by adding peat, a coconut substrate or similar materials. In the case of aquatic plants, on the contrary, the mixture should be made viscous and dense, adding clay if possible so that it is not washed out by water.
For the same purpose, after planting the nymphs from above, on open areas of soil, I laid flat pebbles. Then this container gently, slowly, smoothly lowered into a container of water. All! Grow and make me happy, my nympha!
And pleased. After a few days, the first leaves appeared above the water, and after about a month I waited for flowering. Well, whoever saw, he will understand how joyful it is to see the first blooming flower in the morning rays. Apparently, not only I was happy, the guests also entered my reservoir and even left their posterity to admire the beauty.
Wintering nymphaea and pond
But summer is warm and fleeting, and winter is ahead. How to be There are two important things to keep in mind. If the capacity is small, like mine, and there is a risk of it freezing completely, then the nymphaeum should be removed from the reservoir for the winter. If the reservoir does not freeze to the bottom, then you can leave it there, given that the temperature of the water under the ice layer is +4 degrees.
Based on these considerations, I determined the wintering of the nymphaea. When the surface of the reservoir had already begun to be covered with thin first ice, he took it out of the water. I completely cut off all the old leaves, removed all the plant debris, and cut the roots grown through the holes.
Nymphaeum over the summer has grown expansively, and the container has become a little cramped for her. He put the nympha in a bucket, filled it with water so that it completely covered it, and carried it to the basement for the winter. There I have a temperature quite suitable for wintering seedlings, both land and water: + 5 ... + 8 degrees.
It was possible to get by with a more compact version by simply placing the nymph in the plastic bag and tying it tightly. But the place allows me to keep it in a bucket. So she wintered before the warm days. Then it will need to be divided into parts and planted in more spacious containers. By that time, I hope I will have a more spacious pond.
Yes, and what to do in the winter with a "basin"? In principle, you can leave it to winter with water. But we all studied at school and remember that water expands when freezing, and tanks in the cold burst. To prevent this, you can put in the water for the winter a kind of compensators, which will take on the pressure of expanding water.
For this, we used to lower thick logs and bars into the water for this. Now they take plastic bottles, fill them 1/3 with sand and lower them into water. The air in the bottle is compressed by freezing water, and the container remains intact.
But, I decided otherwise. Anyway, the tank needs to be cleaned of accumulated sludge, so do it in spring or autumn? So I took out the “basin” from the pit, cleaned, washed and returned to its place. By the way, the soil around the season is very well compacted. The tank will stand empty all winter, and so that water and debris do not get inside, I covered it with a piece of linoleum, of course, putting a couple of planks under it (so that it would not fall under the weight of the snow), and pressing it on top with bars (so that it would not blow away with the wind).
By the way, a few words about the frame of the reservoir. It seems to me that with such a small size it will look ridiculous surrounded by trees and even medium-sized shrubs, but ornamental grasses are just that. So I did, but this is a separate topic, someday I will tell.
Of course, now I can clearly see those minor mistakes that need to be corrected, but, in general, over the season, my mini-pond and nymphaeum really pleased me. And how amused pride:
- "Igor, did you do this yourself?" God, what a beauty! ”