Experienced flower growers adhere to certain rules. One of them is to put potted plants in the brightest place, since for their normal development, lush flowering, sufficient illumination and the duration of daylight are needed. However, most of the plants in spring and summer do not live on a hot southern window, midday coke is contraindicated for them, but the morning and evening sun is especially favorable.
Beginning flower growers act differently and reason like this: my palm or geranium will be fine on a high stand in the center of the room. And some, having acquired blooming cineraria and hydrangeas, put them in poorly lit, even dark corners. Maybe this is convenient for someone, but not for plants. It’s bad when they are forced to huddle in the dusk, with a lack of light, sooner or later the stems will stretch, bend, wilt, the flowers will fade, lose their grace.
The illumination in any room is distributed very unevenly, with a distance from the window it drops sharply. Specialists determined, for example, that in a small room with one window, the illumination on the windowsill is 40% of the outdoor (street) illumination, and three meters from the window - only 5%. Even in a room measuring 6.5 x 4.2 m with two windows, the illumination in the center is only 5-10%, and in the corners there is darkness - the light there is no more than 1% compared to street lighting.
This means that decorative plants should be placed against the windows, and no further than 1.5 m from them, to the left and right of the windows against the wall, in the piers where there is enough light. In the “shallow” - not very dark corners, you can place only the most shade-tolerant: aspidistra (“friendly family”), philodendrons, clivia, ficus, variegated begonias, Antarctic cissus, some ferns, arrowroots.
We need to think carefully about the arrangement of colors. Photophilous succulents - succulent plants (aloe, Gasteria, gorvorii, crassulaceae, cacti), as well as blooming azaleas, crinums, hippeastrum, bells ("bride and groom"), roses, fuchsias, piglets (plumbago), calla lilies, coleus (colored nettle ) installed on window sills or in the immediate vicinity of windows on coasters and tables.
Ampel plants with hanging shoots are suspended in a flowerpot in the central part of the window, but, of course, not at the top - there is very little light under the ceiling. Baskets and flower pots are tied with thin nylon lines that will not catch the eye, like laces or coarse twine.
If you have gathered a lot of different colors and it’s crowded on the windowsill, it’s good to make a ladder stand from thin boards and strengthen it on the side of the window or lean it on the windowsill. Pots of flowers are placed on the steps, and light-loving species are placed in the lower tier, ladders, shade-tolerant - on the upper steps.
It’s bad when the flower pots are planted on tall cabinets, it’s dark there, almost under the ceiling, in addition, the plants will be content only with low side lighting. The shoots will stretch to the light, weaken, become rickety - is this the decoration of the room!
Even the violets, geraniums, balsamins and other plants standing on the windowsill are always directed towards the window glass. Curved instances, one-sided sockets are undecorated. To avoid this, the pots must be periodically turned in different directions towards the light, then the plants develop more evenly. However, not all cultures tolerate such manipulation. For example, zigocactuses (“Decembrists”), camellias, various succulents react poorly to movement and rotation, drop buds and flowers, or even not tie them at all.
Most plants will not be one-sided if the pots are set slightly oblique to light. To do this, just place a wooden block (or wedge) under the pot so that the angle between the window sill and the bottom of the pot is 10-15 ° C. With the same inclination to the light, you can hang baskets with ornamental plants.
Well, if you still need to put some blooming photophilous plant in a dark place, for example, in the hallway, corridor, etc., then this can be done, but only for a short time (no more than 2-3 days). After that, it is necessary to transfer it to its former place again, closer to the light.
All indoor plants need to be transplanted from time to time, since the amount of food they have is limited by the size of the pot. Young plants are replanted annually in spring, and old ones after a few years. For example, palm trees under 3 years old are transplanted every year, from 5 to 7 years after 3-4 years, and older than 10 years only when the tub rot.
The need for transplantation is due to the fact that in the earth gradually becomes less nutrients. Some of them are consumed by the plant for nutrition, some are leached during watering. The physical properties of the earth also change - water permeability, moisture capacity, soil acidity or alkalinity increases, and the pot becomes cramped for the plants living in it.
Plants for the most part are difficult to tolerate transplantation, so often it is not necessary to do it, but only as needed.
The need for an adult plant transplant is recognized by the following signs:
- 1. The plant blooms worse, the flowers have become smaller and they have become smaller.
- 2. The earth is squeezed out of the excess of the pot.
- 3. Roots come out of the bottom hole of the pot.
One of these signs or their combination indicate the need for transplantation.
I do it in February - March - April before the plant leaves the dormant period or with the appearance of the first young leaves.
Of course, diseased plants have to be transplanted at any time, not observing favorable terms.
A flower intended for transplantation, I do not water 3-4 days, so that an earthen lump easily leaves the pot. The top layer of the earth to a depth of 2-3 cm is removed and thrown away.
I pick up another pot 2-3 cm larger than before. I wash the old pots with soap, scald with boiling water, and then wipe the inside with a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
I cover the bottom hole of the new pot with a shard (with a bow up) and fill it with 2-3 cm of broken brick or pebbles, or washed with slag mixed with sand, or other material suitable for drainage.
I prepare a suitable earthen mixture for the plant, sprinkle it with a cone (slide) to half a new pot. So, both pots for transplantation are prepared (the new one and the one from which I will transplant). Now, with a right hand strike on the bottom of the pot, I shake the plant out of the old pot and with scissors cut the roots surrounding the earthen lump. Then with a pointed wooden stick I remove the ground from the bottom from the roots. I cut off large and rotten roots and sprinkle cuts with coal dust.
Without completely shaking off the ground from the roots, I transfer the plant to a new pot, carefully straighten the roots along the earthen cone and gradually fill it with soil mixture, shaking and gently tapping the pot on the table so that there are no empty spaces between the roots. Near the walls of the pot I condense the earth, then water it abundantly, mulch it with dry earth and transfer the flower to where direct sunlight does not fall, but not into the dark. A transplanted plant does not water 5-6 days, but is sprayed daily. I resume watering as the top layer of the earth dries up and the plant grows.
Author: E. Nazarov.